The process behind creating a Wood Melbourne timber spout:
1. Raw timber, reclaimed
2. De-nailed
3. Thicknessed (planed down to size) by putting the raw timber through a thicknesser rather than a planer
4. Stock (the timber) is then routered out (cut using a router) to create the space for the piping (plumbing) to fit
5. The following steps are done using one piece of timber, so that when the the cut pieces are fit together, the grain of the timber matches up
6. The timber is cut and joined (these joins are called mitres)
7. The pipes are placed inside the timber, and the timber pieces are put together to make sure they all fit
8. Once its all lined up it is glued and placed together
9. Then it is clamped and left to dry
10. Once dry, the timber is finished off by sanding back to a smooth finish
11. Then the piece is waxed four times, allowing it to dry between each coat (18-24 hours)
12. In order to get the quality of finish and correctness of fit, I make 5-6 before completing one at the quality I want
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Cheers,
Oliver
1. Raw timber, reclaimed
2. De-nailed
3. Thicknessed (planed down to size) by putting the raw timber through a thicknesser rather than a planer
4. Stock (the timber) is then routered out (cut using a router) to create the space for the piping (plumbing) to fit
5. The following steps are done using one piece of timber, so that when the the cut pieces are fit together, the grain of the timber matches up
6. The timber is cut and joined (these joins are called mitres)
7. The pipes are placed inside the timber, and the timber pieces are put together to make sure they all fit
8. Once its all lined up it is glued and placed together
9. Then it is clamped and left to dry
10. Once dry, the timber is finished off by sanding back to a smooth finish
11. Then the piece is waxed four times, allowing it to dry between each coat (18-24 hours)
12. In order to get the quality of finish and correctness of fit, I make 5-6 before completing one at the quality I want
-
Cheers,
Oliver